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Relics of our Imperial Past: A quaint walk through Civil Lines

A walk through the beautifully manicured streets of Civil lines are the only relics that are well preserved in the Northern part of the city. While the Mughal imperial city of Shahjahanabad, was the seat of the power till about mid 18th century, the British did not touch it, except organize the buildings to separate areas where the British military and the civilians were located. The areas which were consisting of civilian populations were demarcated as Civil Lines.
The British after overtaking the power from the Mughals, had commissioned the building of Civil lines or archaically known as White Towns, for the English civilians around the Indian Subcontinent. The towns which would have, silent broad roads, with manicured parks, colonnades resembling the one found in Great Britain. The milkman would ride a bicycle and give milk packets. The roads would resonate silence even in peak hours unlike how we were used to the chaos of Old Delhi. A way of making them not feel home away from home?
One of the most interesting buildings from the British Raj era is the Metcalfe House. A walk through the lanes of Civil Lines will lead you to a place where the administration and governance of the Indian Empire was conducted by nineteen Governor Generals. From Lord Canning to Lord Reading their offices were housed in the Old Secretariat building in Alipore Road, Bungalow no.1. This bungalow is now a major college of Delhi University, Indraprastha College for Women. But wait, the bill board reads Sham Nath Marg?
The erstwhile Alipore Road was the administrative hub, which still has the colonial architecture intact, until the last city of Delhi came into the picture. That was the time when they shifted their base to the Lutyen’s Delhi area by around 1930’s, the city which was the last in the league of building into the socio cultural heritage of Delhi.
Till Independence the major parts of civil lines were a part of the offices which housed British Army, the Post Master General and the Army Press. Post Independence, the place was reduced to Delhi’s metropolitan Council. The serene world of Colonial splendors of Civil Lines, with sparse populations, and arcades with British architecture donning both sides of the streets are an absolute delight to watch.
Take a short walk from the underground of the Civil Lines metro station towards the Maiden’s Hotel, it is then you will understand what British grandeur was! Supposedly the first ever modern Hotel constructed in Delhi, the Maiden’s hotel now taken up by the Oberoi’s and renamed as Oberoi’s Maidens is a reflection of beauty which is distilled with ordinariness. This was also the hotel which had greeted Prince of Wales, and organized the first ever grand ball, in English style. We are not less are we?
It is hard to imagine the Civil Lines of present times to resonate the same amount of silence, where you could cycle your way through the different lanes, while you have a good glance around! Today the roads are jam packed, with cars honking at each other, and men quarrelling over menial issues. Chai stalls feeding into the thirst of college going girls, it is no more a place which was known for its silence!

The Six Days of Bengali Homecoming: Durga Puja

Light misty clouds, cold winds around, coconut husk burning with light coal in earthen pots, and beautiful pandaals around the city are the significant markers that Durga Puja is round the corner. While Durga Puja is celebrated every year in the auspicious month of Ashwin (September-October) and commemorates the victory of Lord Rama over the demon king Raavan, it is a Bengali homecoming for all the Bengali’s. While the whole world likes to reiterate, that India is a land of festivals, we never fail to prove them wrong. We are super pumped and geared to take you for an exciting journey through the pandals of Delhi, and let you immerse into the culture that is associated with Durga Puja!
Durga Puja as a festival marks the battle of Maa Durga with the powerful demon king Mahishasura, and subsequently her emergence of the victorious over the evil. The story goes that Mahishasura was considered ‘immortal’ because of the boon that he had received from Lord Brahma, after he had performed severe austerities and prayers. Lord Brahma was pleased by his devotion, he conferred upon him many boons and a very important boon was of Mahishasura’s death in the hands of a woman, which he did not pay heed to. In Durga, the gods bestowed special powers, where she had ten hands and each carrying lethal weapons. Mahishasura thought that he was near to immortality considering the fact that no woman could match his strength.
With this strong feeling of power, he waged a war against the Devas, with his powerful army of Asura’s. In the battle, when the Devas were defeated they approached Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu for help, thus resulting in the great gods combining all their energies in one woman who was Durga, the embodiment of Shakti. She fought a lone battle with Mahishasura, and is known to have defeated the army all by herself. The auspicious nine days of Navratri is the time which marks the start and end of the battle.
The main tableau consists of the goddess who is usually seated on a lion, with her four children-Kartikeya, Ganesha, Lakshmi, and Saraswati.
Traditionally, huge clay models are made of the goddess and beautifully decorated, with embellishments. Huge canopies are well decorated with temporary bamboo poles with decorative fabric is used to decorate the place, known as pandals.
A Durga Puja experience not only gives you an insight into the culture and the reunion of the Bengalis in these auspicious days, but also opens a wide array of cultures, as not only Bengalis but people around the world come and celebrate in the Dhunochi Naach. A form of dance where people showcase their talent with a coconut husk burning earthen pot on their heads, hands and mouth. While the mornings are usually tranquil with small puja which is performed called Anjoli, later in the day each pandal has a set of activities lined up for kids, as well as adults to keep people engaged for forthcoming days. Of all the days, if there is one highlight day which can describe and epitomize the battle of Maa Durga, it is Mahaashtami. Every year, the priests take much rigor to perform the rituals, from chanting the mantras with the perfect tone, to people gathering to pay their respects for what Maa Durga stands, it is an experience to remember!
All over India, Durga Puja is celebrated with much fan-fare. While it’s a celebratory mood throughout West Bengal, Orissa and Assam, it is a small affair in other parts of the country. Delhi is the window which provides us a glimpse of the diverse country that we are, has a fan fare which is unmatched. Don’t be surprised if you see a pandal which conducts Dandiya nights as well. We are bred with cultural immersions! While Delhiites, would not stop working on those six auspicious days, unlike West Bengal, but it would also not be away from the celebrations.
In Gujarat, surprisingly, another avatar of Durga, Amba, is worshipped. As celebratory as it can get, the rituals are succeeded with a community dance ‘Dandiya’ where men and women, come in beautiful, vibrant dresses, after dinner specifically, they start their community dance, which goes on till midnight. The communitarian dance happens every day throughout the Navratri.
While Delhi gears up for another round of Durga Puja, we sneak into the history of Pandals in Delhi. The earliest known durga puja Pandal was organized as early as 1911, when the British had shifted their capital to Delhi, some prominent Bengali administrative officers had come over and settled here. To get the feel of home away from home, they came up with their small pandals. With each passing year, people are getting more rooted to their traditional ways of puja with some minor tweaks in time. Join us and immerse yourself in the various colours of Durga puja.

The Days when Strength is Worshipped: Durga Puja experience

Light misty clouds, cold winds around, coconut husk burning with light coal in an earthen pot, and beautiful pandaals are the significant markers that Durga Puja is round the corner. Durga Puja is celebrated every year in the auspicious month of Ashwin (September-October) and commemorates the victory of Lord Rama over the demon king Raavan.
Durga Puja is the ceremonial worship of goddess Durga, where she had won over the demon king Mahishasura. In Durga, the gods bestowed special powers, where she had ten hands and each carrying lethal weapons. The main tableau consist of the goddess who is usually seated on a lion, with er four children-Kartikeya, Ganesha, Lakshmi, and Saraswati.
Traditionally, huge clay models are made of the goddess and beautifully decorated, with embellishments. Huge canopies are well decorated with temporary bamboo poles with decorative fabric is used to decorate the place, known as pandals.
A Durga Puja experience not only gives you an insight into the culture and the reunion of the Bengalis in these auspicious days, but also opens a wide array of cultures, as not only Bengalis but people around the world come and celebrate in the Dhunochi Naach.
The first durga puja in Delhi happened as early as 1911, when the British had shifted their capital to Delhi, and many Bengalis who were working in the administration had come and settled in Delhi. The oldest Durga Puja Samiti dates back to 1910.

The Moonlit Square

An arena of merchandise, Chandni Chowk besides being a major tourist attraction is one of the most famous market lanes in Delhi and India. The market place holds a charm of mystical in nature of an era of the royals Mughals. Built in the 17th century by Mughal Emperor of India Shah Jahan, and designed by his daughter Jahan Ara. This market was once divided by canals which are now closed to reflect moonlight, and it remains one of India’s largest wholesale markets.
This grandest lane leads one directly to the Red Fort and often processions of Emperor Shah Jahan would pass through it. The Moonlight Square was designed and established by Princess Jahanara, Shah Jahan’s favourite daughter, in 1650 AD. The bazaar, which was shaped as a square, was given further elegance by the presence of a pool in the centre of the complex. In particular, the pool shimmered in the moonlight, a feature which was perhaps responsible for the nomenclature of the marketplace.
The shops of the complex were originally built in a half-moon shaped pattern, which, for some reason, is lost today. The bazaar was in the time of Shah Jahan, who was famous for its silver merchants. This could also have an important role to play in the nomenclature of the place as silver is referred to as Chandi in Hindi, a word which could have been slightly deformed to form Chandni Chowk.
Even today when you walk through this lane you will find it to be choked with congestion, vehicle, rickshaws and street vendors it’s totally a different world. The “City of Shah Jahan” and the” Bazaars of Old Delhi” are the 2 of the best walking tours you must attend the to explore the old city and its historic lanes.

Parliament House

Located in the northwestern side of the Vijay Chowk the Parliament House is in the vicinity of the secretariat buildings. The building marks the strength and governance of the world’s largest democracy.
Initially it was planned to be a part of the Rashtrapati Bhawan, but in 1919 according to the Montague-Chelmsford reforms it was announced to be designed as the Indian parliament. The Duke of Connaught laid its foundation in 1921 and the building was inaugurated in 1927 by Lord and Lady Irwin. The Parliament was designed by famous architect Herbert Baker and also previously it was known as Circular House.
The Parliament House of India has a central hall topped with a domed structure and three semi circular chambers. These chambers were initially assigned to house the council of state, legislative assembly and the chamber of princes. However, the Parliament House now accommodates the ‘ Lok Sabha’ or the Lower House of the Parliament and the ‘ Rajya Sabha’ or the Upper House of the Parliament and a library.
The three circular chambers are guarded by a string of 144 columns that adds to the extravaganza of the building’s beauty. The Parliament House is flanked by beautiful gardens and fountains which enhances the glory of the building.

Remembering the heroes

India Gate also known as “All India War Memorial” was constructed in honor of 90,000 soldiers who sacrificed their lives during World War I and also the Third Anglo Afghan War. ‘Amar Jawan Jyoti’ or the flame of the immortal warrior is burning under it since 1971. This eternal flame reminds us of the heroes, those brave soldiers and their sacrifices who lost their lives in order to protect their country.
The 42 meter high gateway built in red stone and granite the India Gate was planned by Sir Edwin Lutyen the architect who laid out the plan for Delhi. The Duke of Connaught laid the foundation stone of India Gate and its construction was completed in 1921. India Gate Memorial has become one of the most popular destinations of Delhi as well as India.
Located in the heart of capital India Gate lies towards the east end of Janpath that leads to the Rashtrapati Bhawan. The surrounding area of the memorial is also now a famous picnic spot and provides a variety of entertainment. One can spend a whole day watching monkey performances, viewing the soap bubbles that are blown all over the lawns of the India Gate, playing with balloons and more.
In the evening, Delhi’s India Gate is crowded with evening walkers as well as tourists and mobile vendors. You can taste the typical Indian fast foods, ‘fruit chaat’, ‘bhelpuri’, ‘chana jor garam’, ‘dal ka pakodas’, aerated drinks from the arcade of vendors stationed there.

Refuge of the faithful

Purana Quila, the fort was built between 1538 and 1545 by the Mughal emperor Humanyun. The fort originally lay on the bank of the river Yamuna before the river changed its course. The Purana Quila was built by Humayun in an attempt to build a city of his own. But characteristically, the Old Fort did not bear the name of its creator unlike the other emperors erecting such structure. When Sher Shah defeated Humayun most of the structures inside the old fort were demolished and was renamed as ‘Shergarh’ . But once again as Humayun recaptured his city from Sher Shah’s son he took the task of completing the city and rebuilding its old glory.
The walls of Purana Quila have three gates (the Humayun Darwaza, Talaqi Darwaza and Bara Darwaza) and are surrounded by a moat, which was fed by river Yamuna. The double-storied gates of the Purana Quila are quite massive and are built with red sandstone. The walls of the old fort are said to be built by Humayun while the buildings in the old fort are attributed to Sher Shar, the Sur ruler. Of all the surviving buildings in the old fort complex, the Sher Mandal and the Quila-i-kunha Mosque are notable.
The Sher Mandal was built by Humayun. It is a two storied octagonal tower, used by Humayun as his library. The Quila-I-kunha Mosque is an example of Indo Islamic architecture. The unique features of Indo-Islamic architecture like molding, bracketed openings, marble inlay, carving etc are very prominent in the structure. The prayer hall of the Quila-i-Kunha mosque measures 51.20m by 14.90m and has five doorways with the ‘true’ horseshoe-shaped arches. The mehrabs (prayer niches) inside the Quila-i-Kunha mosque are richly ornamented with concentric arches. The mosque has an inscription which says ‘As long as there are people on this earth, may this edifice be frequented, and people be happy in it.’
Excavations have revealed that the Purana Quila or the old fort stands at the site of Indraprasta, the capital of the Pandavas. Excavations near the eastern wall of the fort show that the site had been occupied since 1000 B.C. The PGW (Painted Gray Pottery) recovered from the site date back to the Mahabharata period.

North & South Block

Situated across each other on the Raisina hill the North and south Block actually represent the commanding attitude of the nation’s capital. They house the headquarters of the government offices and the Delhi assembly. Initially these two blocks were introduced as the secretariat buildings when the British relocated the government offices to north and south blocks in New Delhi. The buildings designed by the Edwin Lutiyen and Herbert Baker. The secretariat buildings were built in the designs of the imposition of superiority of the white masters over the natives.

Some of the major offices located in North block are:

  • Ministry of Finance

  • Ministry of home affairs

Some of major offices located in South Block are:

  • Ministry of Defense

  • Ministry of External Affairs

  • The Prime Minister’s office

These secretariat buildings are made of rose pink and pale yellow sandstone. The structure of the buildings gives a hint of the Mughal and Rajputana style. Both buildings are ornamented with stone screens which are known as ‘jali’. The buildings are provided with slants along the roof that shelters the artwork of the building from heat and monsoonal showers.

The government of Australia, Canada, New Zealand and South Africa donated the four Dominion columns that stand within the Great court. The centre of the court is adorned by the Jaipur Column of red sandstone with structures of a white egg, bronze lotus and six-pointed glass star of India.

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