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An interface of the past with the present: ITO

The main intersection between the Old city and the new city can be ITO. As crowded as you can think it to be, during peak hours, traffic jams at ITO are normal. The high rise buildings of Delhi Police Headquarters see a flow of people, grimly looking at each other, and exchanging expressions of despair of walking back to a tough life of office. The essence of Nukkad ka khana is intact on the streets of ITO, where you have rickety stalls, dogs going around the dust bin baskets, clearing their food agenda for today, lafange boys sitting at chai stalls and enjoying, well just enjoying!
Chola Bhatura stalls with Rs.20 for a plate, is worth the grease that they sell. The stall has been there since 1978, run by a guy from Faridkot, he is paunching bellies of hungry Delhiites since its inception.
The city’s unemployed, spreading the news of current vacancies in bright colored leaflets, and others while rushing with time entering their offices. This is what makes up for the life around ITO.
Taking a glance of the main areas around ITO, all I can recall is there was Jamait Ulaima, an Ismalic center for learning, unrecognizable from far, but a modern structure with a medieval style dome, were they trying to imitate the royal architecture of Shahjahanabad?
One of the most quiet places in ITO, the best part about it is they let you go right up till the dome. Inside there is a beautiful pool, palm trees and lamp posts which remind you of the works of Audrey Hepburn dancing on My Fair lady. Can you even imagine a place right in the midst of a busy street of ITO?
The place is a crossroads between the modern and medieval. While on one side is a Mughal glamour of Khooni Darwaza, Dilli Gate and Red Fort, the other side houses the British razzle-dazzle, India Gate and the Presidents House.
A glance through the whole street of intermix reflects a blend of old and new. Right from a street named after Delhi’s Last Mughal ruler to Delhi’s first Deputy Mayor which is Ram Charan Agarwal Chowk. ITO is also the place which is now the hub of various important offices, from the Passport office to the secretariat offices, all Bureaucratic honchos are drawn towards this part of the city. Tucked away in one corner is the Doll Museum. This is no other ordinary Museum this is an international Museum, which is a haven for children. Annabelle and the concept of dolls has much been spooked by the Hollywood for us, but this is a place which will bring back your childhood memories of how you used to play with dolls. Right at the heart of Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg, The museum has successfully taken over the Nehru House, which houses around 6000 dolls from 85 countries. Not only the models are on display but they also speak a lot about the heritage from which they come. It is a sight to see the cultural traditions of 85 different countries displayed on one place.

The precincts of A Mughal magnificence: Around Humayun’s Tomb area

The garden right in front of the entrance of Humayun’s tomb has a story to tell, a story which is overshadowed by one of the most beautiful place of Delhi. The nocturnal tunes of the birds singing, sitting in the tree lined corridors, while the boys indulge in some cricket sessions, while some love birds take some time off to exchange love with each other.
The pathway has a soul, which is trampled every time people walk through it. A time off from the city life, the pathway gives us an opportunity to engage with the deeper feelings and thoughts, which remain dormant for the most parts of our lives. The city life tends to take a toll on your routine, when each day, each minute you miss a beat, the beat of nature. Just like how Humayun as a person was. A considerate attached father who would not raise his voice over his favourite sons, a well learned man, who was deeply involved in books that it was easy to trick him. A man who exuberated the legacy that he was coming from, as well as spreading the wings of the Mughal empire far and wide.
If we could use the garden area as a metaphor to understand the emperor, it would have been a perfect one. Not very interested in how cleverly sultans would take over empires. That is why he must have lost the empire to the hands of the Afghan ruler Sher Shah Suri. With the help of his able commanders he was quick to take over from the Surs, and re-establish the Mughal empire with much prominence and authority.
As the sun begins to set, and the sky is clear blend, of blue, red and orange, the long pathway is bathed in the glow of the twilight hour which resembles the fallen leaves.

Stepping into a dream lane: Gali Chooriwalan at Chawri Bazaar

Out of all the narrow lanes of Old Delhi, there is an extraordinary gully which offers sights of exquisite Havelis. Old dilapidated houses which might be once prominent are now in ruins. But ruins also have their own attraction, isn’t it?
The turn towards a street called Chooriwalan in Chawri Bazar, will transport you to a more sublime street, which is away from the hustle of Old Delhi. The old buildings built of Lakhori bricks, is well preserved with elaborate mansions flanked on both sides of the street. The street is part of Chawri Bazaar once popularly known for its dancing girls and courtesans in the 19th century, frequented by nobility and rich alike. After the advent of British as the tawaif culture faded out, subsequently prostitutes came to occupy the upper floors of the market. This eventually led to the area becoming hub of criminality and thus the Delhi Municipal Committee evict them from the area altogether.,[4] the street is named after a Marathi word chawri, which means meeting place. The street got this name mainly because here a ‘sabha’ or meeting would take place in front of a noble’s house and he would try settling the disputes before it would reach the emperor. A second reason is probably that a gathering used to get organized when a respected dancer performed and showed the finer nuances of her skill. The whole ambience of the street, however, got changed after the 1857 war when British destroyed many huge mansions of the nobles.
The bazaar is now a hub of largest wholesale market for hardware with hardware shops lined all across the street. The street called Chooriwalan, was believed to be the street which would be lined with beautiful shops selling bangles. Going right till the ends of Matia Mahal Bazaar, the street is lined with stenches and sights which are typical of the Walled city. You may take a brief walk for a shorter distance on the street, but the walk itself will evoke a sense of pleasure looking at the dilapidated mansions.
The old style doors and windows, with jaalis are a treat to the eyes. They keep reminding how we have still not come out of the magnificence of the era. Overhanging balconies with elaborately carved brackets are beauties beyond words.
For a usual passerby, the sun rays falling over the whole street, making it glitter might be a usual thing, but for someone like us, who don’t get to appreciate heritage in how they are, it is an illuminated object of Museum.
Throughout the day, people residing in the vicinity walk through the streets, uninterested of the beauty that the street holds. At night the street lamps dimly light up the street, giving it an old world charm which cannot be missed!

Relics of our Imperial Past: A quaint walk through Civil Lines

A walk through the beautifully manicured streets of Civil lines are the only relics that are well preserved in the Northern part of the city. While the Mughal imperial city of Shahjahanabad, was the seat of the power till about mid 18th century, the British did not touch it, except organize the buildings to separate areas where the British military and the civilians were located. The areas which were consisting of civilian populations were demarcated as Civil Lines.
The British after overtaking the power from the Mughals, had commissioned the building of Civil lines or archaically known as White Towns, for the English civilians around the Indian Subcontinent. The towns which would have, silent broad roads, with manicured parks, colonnades resembling the one found in Great Britain. The milkman would ride a bicycle and give milk packets. The roads would resonate silence even in peak hours unlike how we were used to the chaos of Old Delhi. A way of making them not feel home away from home?
One of the most interesting buildings from the British Raj era is the Metcalfe House. A walk through the lanes of Civil Lines will lead you to a place where the administration and governance of the Indian Empire was conducted by nineteen Governor Generals. From Lord Canning to Lord Reading their offices were housed in the Old Secretariat building in Alipore Road, Bungalow no.1. This bungalow is now a major college of Delhi University, Indraprastha College for Women. But wait, the bill board reads Sham Nath Marg?
The erstwhile Alipore Road was the administrative hub, which still has the colonial architecture intact, until the last city of Delhi came into the picture. That was the time when they shifted their base to the Lutyen’s Delhi area by around 1930’s, the city which was the last in the league of building into the socio cultural heritage of Delhi.
Till Independence the major parts of civil lines were a part of the offices which housed British Army, the Post Master General and the Army Press. Post Independence, the place was reduced to Delhi’s metropolitan Council. The serene world of Colonial splendors of Civil Lines, with sparse populations, and arcades with British architecture donning both sides of the streets are an absolute delight to watch.
Take a short walk from the underground of the Civil Lines metro station towards the Maiden’s Hotel, it is then you will understand what British grandeur was! Supposedly the first ever modern Hotel constructed in Delhi, the Maiden’s hotel now taken up by the Oberoi’s and renamed as Oberoi’s Maidens is a reflection of beauty which is distilled with ordinariness. This was also the hotel which had greeted Prince of Wales, and organized the first ever grand ball, in English style. We are not less are we?
It is hard to imagine the Civil Lines of present times to resonate the same amount of silence, where you could cycle your way through the different lanes, while you have a good glance around! Today the roads are jam packed, with cars honking at each other, and men quarrelling over menial issues. Chai stalls feeding into the thirst of college going girls, it is no more a place which was known for its silence!

The Six Days of Bengali Homecoming: Durga Puja

Light misty clouds, cold winds around, coconut husk burning with light coal in earthen pots, and beautiful pandaals around the city are the significant markers that Durga Puja is round the corner. While Durga Puja is celebrated every year in the auspicious month of Ashwin (September-October) and commemorates the victory of Lord Rama over the demon king Raavan, it is a Bengali homecoming for all the Bengali’s. While the whole world likes to reiterate, that India is a land of festivals, we never fail to prove them wrong. We are super pumped and geared to take you for an exciting journey through the pandals of Delhi, and let you immerse into the culture that is associated with Durga Puja!
Durga Puja as a festival marks the battle of Maa Durga with the powerful demon king Mahishasura, and subsequently her emergence of the victorious over the evil. The story goes that Mahishasura was considered ‘immortal’ because of the boon that he had received from Lord Brahma, after he had performed severe austerities and prayers. Lord Brahma was pleased by his devotion, he conferred upon him many boons and a very important boon was of Mahishasura’s death in the hands of a woman, which he did not pay heed to. In Durga, the gods bestowed special powers, where she had ten hands and each carrying lethal weapons. Mahishasura thought that he was near to immortality considering the fact that no woman could match his strength.
With this strong feeling of power, he waged a war against the Devas, with his powerful army of Asura’s. In the battle, when the Devas were defeated they approached Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu for help, thus resulting in the great gods combining all their energies in one woman who was Durga, the embodiment of Shakti. She fought a lone battle with Mahishasura, and is known to have defeated the army all by herself. The auspicious nine days of Navratri is the time which marks the start and end of the battle.
The main tableau consists of the goddess who is usually seated on a lion, with her four children-Kartikeya, Ganesha, Lakshmi, and Saraswati.
Traditionally, huge clay models are made of the goddess and beautifully decorated, with embellishments. Huge canopies are well decorated with temporary bamboo poles with decorative fabric is used to decorate the place, known as pandals.
A Durga Puja experience not only gives you an insight into the culture and the reunion of the Bengalis in these auspicious days, but also opens a wide array of cultures, as not only Bengalis but people around the world come and celebrate in the Dhunochi Naach. A form of dance where people showcase their talent with a coconut husk burning earthen pot on their heads, hands and mouth. While the mornings are usually tranquil with small puja which is performed called Anjoli, later in the day each pandal has a set of activities lined up for kids, as well as adults to keep people engaged for forthcoming days. Of all the days, if there is one highlight day which can describe and epitomize the battle of Maa Durga, it is Mahaashtami. Every year, the priests take much rigor to perform the rituals, from chanting the mantras with the perfect tone, to people gathering to pay their respects for what Maa Durga stands, it is an experience to remember!
All over India, Durga Puja is celebrated with much fan-fare. While it’s a celebratory mood throughout West Bengal, Orissa and Assam, it is a small affair in other parts of the country. Delhi is the window which provides us a glimpse of the diverse country that we are, has a fan fare which is unmatched. Don’t be surprised if you see a pandal which conducts Dandiya nights as well. We are bred with cultural immersions! While Delhiites, would not stop working on those six auspicious days, unlike West Bengal, but it would also not be away from the celebrations.
In Gujarat, surprisingly, another avatar of Durga, Amba, is worshipped. As celebratory as it can get, the rituals are succeeded with a community dance ‘Dandiya’ where men and women, come in beautiful, vibrant dresses, after dinner specifically, they start their community dance, which goes on till midnight. The communitarian dance happens every day throughout the Navratri.
While Delhi gears up for another round of Durga Puja, we sneak into the history of Pandals in Delhi. The earliest known durga puja Pandal was organized as early as 1911, when the British had shifted their capital to Delhi, some prominent Bengali administrative officers had come over and settled here. To get the feel of home away from home, they came up with their small pandals. With each passing year, people are getting more rooted to their traditional ways of puja with some minor tweaks in time. Join us and immerse yourself in the various colours of Durga puja.

The Days when Strength is Worshipped: Durga Puja experience

Light misty clouds, cold winds around, coconut husk burning with light coal in an earthen pot, and beautiful pandaals are the significant markers that Durga Puja is round the corner. Durga Puja is celebrated every year in the auspicious month of Ashwin (September-October) and commemorates the victory of Lord Rama over the demon king Raavan.
Durga Puja is the ceremonial worship of goddess Durga, where she had won over the demon king Mahishasura. In Durga, the gods bestowed special powers, where she had ten hands and each carrying lethal weapons. The main tableau consist of the goddess who is usually seated on a lion, with er four children-Kartikeya, Ganesha, Lakshmi, and Saraswati.
Traditionally, huge clay models are made of the goddess and beautifully decorated, with embellishments. Huge canopies are well decorated with temporary bamboo poles with decorative fabric is used to decorate the place, known as pandals.
A Durga Puja experience not only gives you an insight into the culture and the reunion of the Bengalis in these auspicious days, but also opens a wide array of cultures, as not only Bengalis but people around the world come and celebrate in the Dhunochi Naach.
The first durga puja in Delhi happened as early as 1911, when the British had shifted their capital to Delhi, and many Bengalis who were working in the administration had come and settled in Delhi. The oldest Durga Puja Samiti dates back to 1910.

The Moonlit Square

An arena of merchandise, Chandni Chowk besides being a major tourist attraction is one of the most famous market lanes in Delhi and India. The market place holds a charm of mystical in nature of an era of the royals Mughals. Built in the 17th century by Mughal Emperor of India Shah Jahan, and designed by his daughter Jahan Ara. This market was once divided by canals which are now closed to reflect moonlight, and it remains one of India’s largest wholesale markets.
This grandest lane leads one directly to the Red Fort and often processions of Emperor Shah Jahan would pass through it. The Moonlight Square was designed and established by Princess Jahanara, Shah Jahan’s favourite daughter, in 1650 AD. The bazaar, which was shaped as a square, was given further elegance by the presence of a pool in the centre of the complex. In particular, the pool shimmered in the moonlight, a feature which was perhaps responsible for the nomenclature of the marketplace.
The shops of the complex were originally built in a half-moon shaped pattern, which, for some reason, is lost today. The bazaar was in the time of Shah Jahan, who was famous for its silver merchants. This could also have an important role to play in the nomenclature of the place as silver is referred to as Chandi in Hindi, a word which could have been slightly deformed to form Chandni Chowk.
Even today when you walk through this lane you will find it to be choked with congestion, vehicle, rickshaws and street vendors it’s totally a different world. The “City of Shah Jahan” and the” Bazaars of Old Delhi” are the 2 of the best walking tours you must attend the to explore the old city and its historic lanes.

Parliament House

Located in the northwestern side of the Vijay Chowk the Parliament House is in the vicinity of the secretariat buildings. The building marks the strength and governance of the world’s largest democracy.
Initially it was planned to be a part of the Rashtrapati Bhawan, but in 1919 according to the Montague-Chelmsford reforms it was announced to be designed as the Indian parliament. The Duke of Connaught laid its foundation in 1921 and the building was inaugurated in 1927 by Lord and Lady Irwin. The Parliament was designed by famous architect Herbert Baker and also previously it was known as Circular House.
The Parliament House of India has a central hall topped with a domed structure and three semi circular chambers. These chambers were initially assigned to house the council of state, legislative assembly and the chamber of princes. However, the Parliament House now accommodates the ‘ Lok Sabha’ or the Lower House of the Parliament and the ‘ Rajya Sabha’ or the Upper House of the Parliament and a library.
The three circular chambers are guarded by a string of 144 columns that adds to the extravaganza of the building’s beauty. The Parliament House is flanked by beautiful gardens and fountains which enhances the glory of the building.

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